Buying a used car is one of the biggest purchases most people make outside of property. Get it right and you'll have reliable transport for years. Get it wrong and you could be looking at expensive repairs, hidden finance, or worse — a car that isn't legally yours.
Here are ten checks you should do before handing over any money.
1. Run a vehicle history check
Before you even go to see the car, look up the registration number. You can check the basics for free — MOT history, tax status, mileage records, and vehicle details — using a free car check.
This alone will tell you if the car's MOT is current, whether the mileage adds up across past tests, and whether the car matches what's being advertised. If the advert says "2019 Ford Focus, 40,000 miles" but the records show 70,000 miles at its last MOT, you've saved yourself a wasted trip.
2. Check the MOT history in detail
Don't just confirm it has a valid MOT — read through the history. Look for:
- Recurring advisories that never get fixed (suggests neglected maintenance)
- Failures that took a long time to resolve (might indicate cost-cutting)
- Mileage that doesn't make sense — especially any drops, which could indicate tampering
- The pattern of pass/fail — a car that fails every other year may have underlying issues
MOT history is publicly available for any UK vehicle and goes back to 2005. It's one of the most valuable free resources available to buyers.
3. Verify the V5C logbook
The V5C (logbook) is the registration document. Check that:
- The details match the car (colour, engine size, VIN)
- The seller's name and address are on it
- It's the original document, not a replacement (marked "replacement" at the top — multiple replacements can be a red flag)
- The VIN on the V5C matches the one on the car (usually visible through the windscreen at the base, and on a plate in the engine bay or door frame)
Our guide to the V5C logbook explains everything this document shows. If the seller says the V5C is "in the post" or they can't find it, walk away.
4. Check for outstanding finance
A surprisingly common problem. If the previous owner bought the car on finance and hasn't finished paying, the finance company technically owns it. If you buy it, they can legally repossess it from you — and you lose both the car and your money.
A basic HPI or finance check will flag this. Our guide on how to check if a car has finance covers the process in detail. It's one of the few paid checks worth doing, especially on higher-value vehicles.
5. Inspect the bodywork carefully
Look at the car in daylight, ideally when it's dry. Check for:
- Mismatched paint — different shades between panels suggest accident repair
- Panel gaps — uneven gaps between doors, bonnet, or boot indicate panels have been replaced or the chassis has been bent
- Rust — check wheel arches, sills, door bottoms, and around the windscreen
- Overspray — look at rubber seals and trim for paint where it shouldn't be
Run your hand along panels. You can often feel filler or ripples that aren't visible to the eye.
6. Check the tyres
Tyres tell you a lot about a car:
- Tread depth — the legal minimum is 1.6mm, but anything under 3mm will need replacing soon
- Even wear — uneven wear suggests alignment issues, which can point to suspension or steering problems
- Matching tyres — ideally, all four should be the same brand and type. Mismatched tyres suggest the owner is cutting corners
- Age — tyres over five years old should be replaced regardless of tread, especially on the front
Budget about £60–£100 per tyre for replacements when calculating the true cost of the car.
7. Start it from cold
Always try to see the car before the seller has warmed it up. A cold start reveals:
- Blue smoke on startup — burning oil, often means worn valve seals or piston rings
- Rough idle that smooths out — could be a minor sensor issue, or something more expensive
- Warning lights — all dashboard lights should illuminate briefly then go off. Any that stay on are flags
- Strange noises — knocking, ticking, or rattling from a cold engine can indicate wear
If you arrive and the engine is already warm, the seller may be hiding something. Ask to come back another day for a cold start.
8. Test drive properly
Don't just drive it round the block. Take it on a variety of roads:
- Low speed — check the steering feels smooth and central, listen for knocks over bumps
- A-road or dual carriageway — get it up to 60mph. Does it pull to one side? Any vibration?
- Hills — does the clutch slip under load? Does the auto gearbox hunt between gears?
- Braking — does it stop straight? Any grinding, squealing, or pulsing through the pedal?
Turn off the radio. Wind down the windows. You're listening as much as driving.
9. Look under the bonnet
You don't need to be a mechanic. Just check the obvious:
- Oil level and condition — pull the dipstick. Oil should be amber to dark brown. Milky white oil means coolant contamination (head gasket failure).
- Coolant level — should be between min and max when cold. Never open the cap on a hot engine.
- Battery — look for corrosion on the terminals. Check for a date sticker — batteries typically last 4–5 years.
- Belts and hoses — look for cracks, fraying, or leaks
- General cleanliness — a well-maintained car usually has a reasonably clean engine bay
10. Get a pre-purchase inspection
If you're spending more than a couple of thousand pounds, consider paying for an independent inspection. The AA, RAC, and various independent inspectors will examine the car thoroughly and give you a written report.
It typically costs £100–£200, but it could save you thousands. If the seller refuses to let you have the car inspected, that tells you something.
The bottom line
Most sellers are honest, but even honest sellers might not know about every issue with their car. These checks aren't about being suspicious — they're about making an informed decision.
Take your time, do the homework, and don't let anyone rush you. For a detailed look at what to assess when you see the car in person, read our test drive checklist. A good car will still be a good car tomorrow.