More people than ever are buying cars online. Whether you're browsing Auto Trader, Facebook Marketplace, or a dealer's website, it's now common to find a car, agree a price, and travel hours to collect it — sometimes without a traditional test drive.
That convenience comes with risk. You can't hear a dodgy gearbox from a listing photo. You can't feel a pulling brake from a description. But there's a surprising amount you can verify from your sofa before you commit to viewing.
Here's how to check a car thoroughly before you set off.
What you can check remotely (before travelling)
The single most useful thing you can do before viewing any used car is to look up its registration number. If the seller won't provide the reg, that's a red flag in itself — walk away.
With the registration, you can check the following for free using Free Plate Check:
MOT history
The full MOT history for any UK vehicle is available going back to 2005. This is an absolute goldmine for buyers. Look for:
- Mileage consistency — the recorded mileage at each MOT should increase steadily. Any sudden drops or periods where the mileage barely moves are warning signs of clocking.
- Advisory patterns — a few cosmetic advisories are normal on older cars. But recurring advisories for brakes, suspension, or corrosion that are never addressed suggest a neglected car. Our guide on buying a car with MOT advisories explains which ones matter.
- Failure history — what has the car failed on before? Multiple failures for the same component suggest an underlying problem that's been patched rather than properly fixed.
- Test dates — gaps in the MOT history could mean the car was off the road (SORN) or possibly driven without a valid MOT.
Tax status
Check whether the car is currently taxed. An untaxed car isn't necessarily a problem (it might be SORN), but if the seller claims it's ready to drive and the tax has lapsed, that raises questions.
You can also see what the annual road tax will cost you — useful for budgeting, especially if you're looking at a car with higher CO2 emissions.
ULEZ compliance
If you live in or near London, or plan to drive through it, check ULEZ compliance before you buy. A non-compliant car will cost you £12.50 every day you drive in the zone. Most petrol cars from 2006 onwards and diesel cars from September 2015 onwards (Euro 6) are compliant, but don't assume — check.
Safety recalls
Outstanding safety recalls are a serious issue. You can check for recalls to see if the car has any unresolved manufacturer recalls. These are free to fix at any franchised dealer, but the seller should have had them done. If they haven't, it tells you something about how they've maintained the car.
Valuation
Before agreeing a price, check what similar cars are actually selling for. Our free car valuation tool gives you an estimated market value based on the car's age, mileage, and condition. If the asking price is significantly above market value, you have negotiating room. If it's significantly below, ask yourself why.
Red flags in online listings
Even before you run a plate check, the listing itself can reveal warning signs. Be wary of:
- No registration number visible — legitimate sellers have no reason to hide it. If the plates are blurred in photos or the seller won't share the reg when asked, move on.
- Very few or low-quality photos — a genuine seller with nothing to hide will take clear photos of the exterior, interior, engine bay, tyres, and any damage. Blurry or dark photos may be hiding bodywork issues.
- Vague descriptions — "drives well, good condition" tells you nothing. Good listings mention specific details: service history, new parts, tyre condition, any known issues.
- No mention of service history — if the seller doesn't mention service history, they probably don't have one. That's worth knowing before you travel.
- Price too good to be true — a car priced well below market value is either a scam, has hidden problems, or the seller needs a quick sale. Check the vehicle history to find out which.
- Pressure tactics — "I've got three people coming to see it tomorrow" is the oldest trick in the book. Legitimate sellers will give you time to do your checks.
- Category N or S history not mentioned — sellers are not always upfront about insurance write-off history. A vehicle check will reveal this.
What to verify when you arrive
Online checks will tell you a lot, but they can't replace a physical inspection. When you get to the car, work through this checklist:
Documents
- V5C (logbook) — check the seller's name is on it, the details match the car, and the VIN on the V5C matches the one on the car. Read our V5C guide for what to look for.
- Service history — stamped service book or digital service records. Check the entries are consistent with the mileage.
- Previous MOT certificates — these should align with the online history you've already checked.
Physical inspection
- Bodywork — look for mismatched paint, uneven panel gaps, overspray in the door shuts and boot edges, and signs of filler (run your hand along panels). Do this in daylight.
- Tyres — check tread depth, even wear, matching brands, and age (the four-digit code on the sidewall shows week and year of manufacture).
- Under the bonnet — check oil level and colour (should be amber, not black sludge), coolant level, battery condition, and look for any obvious leaks or bodged repairs.
- Interior — check all electrics work: windows, mirrors, air conditioning, infotainment, heated seats. Check for damp or musty smells (could indicate a leak or flood damage).
Test drive
Never skip the test drive. Our guide on what to check on a test drive covers this in detail, but the essentials are:
- Start from cold — arrive before the seller warms the engine
- Drive on different roads at different speeds
- Turn off the radio and listen for unusual noises
- Check the brakes, clutch, gearbox, and steering feel
- Watch for warning lights on the dashboard
- Test at motorway speed if possible
Paying safely
If everything checks out, protect yourself when paying:
- Never pay the full amount by bank transfer to a private seller before seeing the car. Bank transfers offer almost no buyer protection.
- For dealer purchases, credit card payments (even partial) over £100 give you Section 75 protection.
- For private sales, consider using a secure payment service or meeting at the buyer's bank.
- Get a receipt that includes the seller's name, address, the registration number, mileage, the price paid, and the date.
The two-minute check that can save you hours
The whole point of checking a car online first is to avoid wasted trips and nasty surprises. A two-minute free plate check will reveal mileage inconsistencies, MOT red flags, tax status, ULEZ compliance, and recall information — all before you've left the house.
If you're buying a used car, make it your first step. And if you want the complete checklist, our guide to essential checks before buying a used car covers everything from vehicle history to what to look for under the bonnet.