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Value your car in 30 seconds

Reg only · No email · No signup

Sample car valuation resultSample

Enter your reg below. We pull live UK market data, your actual MOT-recorded mileage, and a calibrated depreciation model to estimate a real-world value range — instantly, with nothing held back behind a signup wall.

Free & instant — no email, no signup

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30 sec

Average valuation

£0

Free, no email

8,000 mi

UK avg per year

Why we don't ask for your email

Almost every other free car valuation site in the UK gates the number behind a form. They want your email, your phone, and often your postcode — supposedly to give you a "personalised" quote. What actually happens: your details are sold or passed to a network of car-buying services, who'll then call you for weeks trying to buy the car for less than it's worth.

We built this tool the opposite way round. The reg is the only thing we need. Mileage comes from DVLA records. Market context comes from live listings. The number appears on screen, you read it, and that's the end of the transaction. No email collected, no follow-up, no inbox-clogging.

Three quick tests for spotting a fake "free" valuation

  1. Does it show the number before the form? A genuinely free tool produces the value first. If you have to enter contact details to see anything, your contact details are the actual product.
  2. Does it ask for your phone number? Phone numbers exist almost exclusively to enable outbound calls — i.e. lead resale to buyers and dealers. There's no technical reason to need one to value a car.
  3. Does the privacy policy mention "sharing with partners"? Look for "trusted partners", "dealer network" or "car-buying services". Those phrases are how lead resale is described in legalese.

How to value your car in three steps

  1. Type your reg. The lookup pulls vehicle data from DVLA — make, model, fuel, engine, year — and any MOT-recorded mileage. This sets the baseline.
  2. Refine with the condition questionnaire. Service history, bodywork, interior, owners, accident record — five quick questions that narrow the range from market-average to your specific car.
  3. Use the number with eyes open. Cross-check with current AutoTrader or eBay Motors listings for the same make/model/year/mileage. The truth sits between the trade-in offer and the private-sale asking-price midpoint.

How our valuation works

Three data layers: a UK-calibrated depreciation model (age, make, mileage), live asking prices pulled in real time from multiple UK marketplaces for the same make, model and year, and an accumulating cache of recent valuations. Your car's real DVLA-recorded mileage feeds the figure — not a guess.

Strong market data means a tighter range and higher confidence. Limited data means a wider range and more reliance on the depreciation model. We always show the confidence level so you know how strong the signal is.

It isn't a formal valuation. For insurance, finance or legal purposes get a professional one. This figure is the starting point for understanding roughly what your car is worth on the open market.

What changes the value most

Six factors do nearly all the work in a UK used-car valuation:

  • Mileage — the single largest variable for most cars. UK average is ~8,000/year. Below adds value, above reduces it. A 10,000-mile difference can swing the price by £500–£2,000 depending on the car. Verify yours with our free mileage check if you're buying.
  • Service history — a full main-dealer history can add 5–10% on a premium brand. Independent specialist history is almost as good for many models. Gaps raise questions.
  • MOT record — consistent passes with low advisory counts signals a well-kept car. Recent failures or recurring advisories knock hundreds off. Check yours with our MOT history check.
  • Make and model — Toyota, Lexus, Porsche, and most Tesla models depreciate slowly. Premium German saloons depreciate fastest in years 3–6. Knowing where your car sits on the curve matters.
  • Condition — bodywork (especially the bumpers and corner panels), interior wear, tyres, and alloy-wheel condition. A professional valet before sale pays for itself.
  • Previous owners — fewer is better. One-owner cars command a noticeable premium, especially on premium brands.

When to value your car

Timing matters more than most sellers realise. A few patterns worth knowing:

  • SUVs and 4×4s typically peak in autumn and early winter as buyers prepare for bad weather. Selling in September or October can earn 3–5% over a March sale.
  • Convertibles peak in spring and early summer. The same MX-5 sells for notably more in April than November.
  • Family hatchbacks are steady year-round but see a small bump in late summer around new-plate change as part-exchanges flood the market.
  • EVs have been volatile — battery-tech generations affect resale heavily. Re-value before selling rather than relying on a quote from six months ago.

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Online valuation vs trade-in offer vs walk-in

Three numbers, three purposes:

  • Online valuation (this tool) — a market estimate. Use it to set your private-sale asking price or to sense-check a part-ex offer.
  • Trade-in offer (We Buy Any Car, Motorway, dealer part-ex) — typically 10–20% below the online estimate. That gap is the dealer or buyer's margin. Convenience cost.
  • Private sale (AutoTrader, eBay Motors, Gumtree, Facebook Marketplace) — the highest number, usually within 5% of the online estimate. Costs you time and the risk of bad buyers.

Knowing all three lets you decide whether the convenience of a trade-in is worth the discount.

Frequently asked questions

How do I value my car for free?
Enter your registration above. We use DVLA mileage records, a UK depreciation model, and live market listings to produce a value range in about 30 seconds — no email, no signup, no personal details.
Can I value my car without giving an email address?
Yes. We never ask for an email to show you the valuation. The number appears on screen as soon as the lookup completes — no gated forms, no marketing emails, no follow-up calls.
What's the most accurate way to value my car?
Combine three sources: an automated tool like ours (instant, free, market-anchored), the asking price of similar cars on AutoTrader or eBay Motors that match your mileage and condition, and a quick walk-in offer from We Buy Any Car or Motorway as a floor. The truth usually sits between the trade offer and the asking-price midpoint.
Should I value my car before selling it privately?
Yes — knowing the range helps you set a realistic asking price and spot lowball offers. Listing 5–10% above your target gives room to negotiate. Listing below market because you guessed will leave money on the table.
How often should I value my car?
Recheck whenever you're thinking about selling, part-exchanging, or insuring. Values shift with the season, fuel prices, and market conditions — a winter quote can differ from a spring one by 5% or more on the same vehicle.
Does the time of year affect my car's value?
Yes. 4×4s and large SUVs tend to peak in autumn/winter. Convertibles peak in spring/early summer. Family hatchbacks are steadier year-round. If you have flexibility on when to sell, timing the market right is worth a few hundred pounds.
Can I trust an online car valuation?
As a starting point, yes — provided it draws from live market data, not stale dealer listings. For an insurance write-off claim, a finance settlement, or any legal use, get a paid professional valuation. For a private sale, a free tool is enough to set the price.
Why do you show a range instead of one number?
No two used cars are identical. The range covers differences in condition, spec, and local demand we can't see from reg data alone. Use the condition questionnaire to narrow it.
Does an MOT advisory or failure affect my car's value?
Yes. Recent failures and recurring advisories can knock hundreds off the price. A lapsed MOT is worse — harder to sell, no legal test drive, signals neglect. Run an MOT check or set a free reminder from our MOT tools.
Why is my car worth less than I thought?
Three common reasons. (1) Memory bias — the price you paid was inflated by dealer margin; the resale value is closer to what the dealer paid for it, not what they sold it for. (2) Depreciation accelerates in years 3–5 for many models. (3) Mileage above the UK average (~8,000/year) compounds with age. Check your mileage trajectory on our MOT history tool — if it's well above average, that explains a lot.
Should I sell to We Buy Any Car or Motorway?
We Buy Any Car is the fastest and easiest, but typically the lowest offer (often 15–20% below private-sale value). Motorway runs an auction across dealers — usually nets a higher price than We Buy Any Car but still 5–15% below private sale. For a clean, in-demand car, private sale is worth the effort. For older, higher-mileage cars or quick-turnaround needs, Motorway is often the best compromise.
How do you make money if it's free and there's no signup?
We earn a commission when you choose to use one of the partners shown on the page — for example a carVertical history report, a garage booking through BookMyGarage, or short-term insurance from Cuvva. Those offers are labelled, they're the same for everyone, and the valuation works exactly the same if you ignore them. Your details are never sold or passed on.

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