Why we don't ask for your email

Almost every other free car valuation site in the UK gates the number behind a form. They want your email, your phone, and often your postcode — supposedly to give you a "personalised" quote. What actually happens: your details are sold or passed to a network of car-buying services, who'll then call you for weeks trying to buy the car for less than it's worth.

We built this tool the opposite way round. The reg is the only thing we need. Mileage comes from DVLA records. Market context comes from live listings. The number appears on screen, you read it, and that's the end of the transaction. No email collected, no follow-up, no inbox-clogging.

How to value your car in three steps

1. Type your reg. The lookup pulls vehicle data from DVLA — make, model, fuel, engine, year — and any MOT-recorded mileage. This sets the baseline.
2. Refine with the condition questionnaire. Service history, bodywork, interior, owners, accident record — five quick questions that narrow the range from market-average to your specific car.
3. Use the number with eyes open. Cross-check with current AutoTrader or eBay Motors listings for the same make/model/year/mileage. The truth sits between the trade-in offer and the private-sale asking-price midpoint.

What changes the value most

Six factors do nearly all the work in a UK used-car valuation:

• Mileage — the single largest variable for most cars. UK average is ~8,000/year. Below adds value, above reduces it. A 10,000-mile difference can swing the price by £500–£2,000 depending on the car. Verify yours with our free mileage check if you're buying.
• Service history — a full main-dealer history can add 5–10% on a premium brand. Independent specialist history is almost as good for many models. Gaps raise questions.
• MOT record — consistent passes with low advisory counts signals a well-kept car. Recent failures or recurring advisories knock hundreds off. Check yours with our MOT history check.
• Make and model — Toyota, Lexus, Porsche, and most Tesla models depreciate slowly. Premium German saloons depreciate fastest in years 3–6. Knowing where your car sits on the curve matters.
• Condition — bodywork (especially the bumpers and corner panels), interior wear, tyres, and alloy-wheel condition. A professional valet before sale pays for itself.
• Previous owners — fewer is better. One-owner cars command a noticeable premium, especially on premium brands.

When to value your car

Timing matters more than most sellers realise. A few patterns worth knowing:

• SUVs and 4×4s typically peak in autumn and early winter as buyers prepare for bad weather. Selling in September or October can earn 3–5% over a March sale.
• Convertibles peak in spring and early summer. The same MX-5 sells for notably more in April than November.
• Family hatchbacks are steady year-round but see a small bump in late summer around new-plate change as part-exchanges flood the market.
• EVs have been volatile — battery-tech generations affect resale heavily. Re-value before selling rather than relying on a quote from six months ago.

Online valuation vs trade-in offer vs walk-in

Three numbers, three purposes:

• Online valuation (this tool) — a market estimate. Use it to set your private-sale asking price or to sense-check a part-ex offer.
• Trade-in offer (We Buy Any Car, Motorway, dealer part-ex) — typically 10–20% below the online estimate. That gap is the dealer or buyer's margin. Convenience cost.
• Private sale (AutoTrader, eBay Motors, Gumtree, Facebook Marketplace) — the highest number, usually within 5% of the online estimate. Costs you time and the risk of bad buyers.

Knowing all three lets you decide whether the convenience of a trade-in is worth the discount.

Frequently asked questions